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K7400 sold.

PM Sent.

I have a Naughty Boy that I need a 2nd control panel for. The overlay is decent on mine, but I need a second to convert that panel into an Arkanoid. I also have a Falcon Crazy Kong, with my CP shown below. I have had no interest at all selling it for $550. (still for sale if anyone wants it)...

I think those are the yoke header pins, I thought the same thing when I first saw it lol. @boy141 When you say: "D18 black band is facing away from the metal heatsink." does that mean the black band is closer to the "middle" of the board, or closer to the outside edge? Just to clarify. D18's...

If you take a clear high resolution photo of the front and the back of the board we can take a look and see if there is any areas that need reflowing

I wonder if it's a flyback issue the secondary side of the flyback provides the voltage for the heater do you have any high voltage at all even for a split second when you turn the game on

Check caps around vertical IC. You have a bad connection somewhere. This is not vertical collapse, and monitors don't "try to collapse". It's possible it could be the yoke also, or yoke connector. However you've said you have reflowed and looked at that area.

What did they sell for

Is there a way you can post a video of exactly what is happening sometimes when a repair Tech looks at the problem it can give them some additional insight

It's hard to tell from your picture, but it doesn't look like these are supposed to be touching.

You can't accurately measure heater voltage. The best you can do is to compare a heater voltage reading from a known working monitor. The reason, as CharlieG stated is it is a 15khz signal, and multimeters measure a normal AC signal of 50hz or 60hz. What is the monitor doing? or what is the...

Capped K4900 sold. Will be working on another one.

Attached. I'll try to stitch together the images to make it nicer, unless yours is already like that. No, I actually didn't do any research on which games had them, just how to service. What's interesting is, and I will post impedance, is the ball brothers and my tec TM 623 use the same tube...

Yes I have it I'm sorry it's I think it's a little bit bigger than eight and a half by 11 so I may have to like cut the image in half or whatever

So it looks like C205 is connected to the base of Q202 in the brightness circuit. The collector of Q202 is connected to pin 7 of the CRT (K pin). 22uf is a 900% increase of the 2.2uf capacitor, and capacitors can usually work with a 20% tolerance. So, a 900% increase in the charging for Q202...

@greedycrisp On your 623, has C205 ever been replaced? Mine also has a 2.2uf and looks original. From what I've learned with monitors, if the caps look original, and the monitor works, replace the cap with what was originally in there, especially if the manual AND schematic read 2.2uf. Also...

Boom shocka-locka

Thanks guys. I kind of figured out what the problem is. Someone on Ebay is selling miswired Konami T&F jamma adapters. Therefore the runs weren't even hooked up.

Sounds like the vertical IC is ok, but it could be failing under load. If you have another that you know is good you can compare measurements, or replace it. It's a guess though. Pin 1 is the output, it literally goes to R206 (2.2ohm), and R207 (910ohm) then to the yoke connector. Maybe also...

I just wanted to make sure of a particular timeline you mentioned at the beginning. You came to the monitor and it had vertical collapse. You checked R903 out of circuit and it was reading 1k (bad). Replaced with 15ohm (correct). Then did you replace the vertical IC or was it replaced before...