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These games have two chips, and pinitech 5114 / 6514 adapter is slightly too large to fit two side-by-side. Ended up creating an adapter to scoot things over and it works great:

What would you like to see? Documentation is on the AtomBusMon github (link). This includes instructions on what to purchase and how to flash. I also had several pictures earlier in the thread. Video is possible but it would just show me running some memory tests, etc. I can make one but what...

Got my adapter PCB back today, looks good to support the 50-pin female version (at expense of a little extra width) in case the bare-board version sells out again:

Here's the under-side of the bare board version where I added top-side 25+25 and bottom-side IC socket. I'm a little embarassed about the quality of my soldering: This should help to envision how the end-item gets plugged into a CPU socket. Use the top-side jumpers to configure things, and...

Correct. The original GODIL40 was a finished end-item with specific connectors soldered onto the board. At the moment they only sell bare-board and female IDC versions. There is pre-built firmware released for both the 250 and 500. I recommend the bare-board 500 version. To create a finished...

I tested the AtomBusMon last night on Qix + Zookeeper. Works awesome. Great substitute for the unobtainable 6809 Fluke pod. This is an in-circuit emulator for 6502, Z80, 6809 microprocessors. It plugs into the CPU socket and provides a serial debug terminal where you can set breakpoints, run...

Yep. There is

Discovered a half-height signal on VD0 (U1 pin 11). After shotgun replacement of U1/U2, it looks like something IS misbehaving on the VD bus. Let's see how many ICs get replaced before I find the root cause....

Through part-swapping between two machines, I determined that my Zookeeper video board is faulty. No visible acid damage. It's been years since I've had the machine running. The self-test button briefly illuminates all LEDs, then goes blank. CRT is blank. I have verified: Activity on the...

Hakko 473 desoldering station - $275 shipped, $250 local pickup 1.6, 1.0 cleaning pins and drills A1009 ceramic filter (x6) A1030 spring filter (x8) 1.6 (x1), 1.0 tips (x2) This desoldering station uses shop air (from your air compressor) instead of an internal pump. Neat idea for reliability...

The arcadeshop adapter still requires an audio amplifier. It feeds power to the MCR board stack, the MCR board stack outputs line-level audio, and the audio amplifier amps line-level to speaker-level outputs.

There wasn't a picture attached to the post.

Wow, I wonder why I spent an extraordinary amount of time making that graphic. I must've been really bored that day. I will try to restate: there is nothing special, you just need to provide 5v DC and 12v DC to make the board work. The transformer + 90412 is a power supply. A switching power...

I don't know because I haven't experienced "that". The original design had an isolated audio power+ground. Depending on how you modify the machine, you might create a ground loop and inject noise at that point in the circuit. I did experience noise on an MCR machine which was generated at the...

It is not required, there's nothing special about it. You can use the MCR switcher adapters just fine. People on KLOV will have varying, untechnical opinions about why you will (or won't) get noise on the audio circuit with (or without) the original power supply assembly.

It's a simple part; there is no reason to cannibalize. I used Jameco 372007 (link) on that machine. Almost any 10 uH choke that handles 500mA should be fine in that position. I haven't checked if any of the other positions require higher current.

I did it for two reasons: I was repairing my buddy's game and snapped a lug off the transformer; there was not enough metal left to repair. I was not willing to spend time looking for somebody scrapping a Pac that would sell me a replacement 7v/14v transformer The original design is prone to AC...

So I just did one. See attached photo. What I ended up doing was removing the 14v/7v transformer, relocating the line filter 90 degrees to the side, screwing SMPS on the long axis, adding a connector + wiring to the original harness, and reworking the grounding. Of course I also modified the...

I love my Fluke 77 because it has a backlight, 600V input range, high quality leads, and a really good control knob. I'm much happier with it than some of the inexpensive options.

Butane iron will have minimal or no temperature control, similar to what you have right now. It would be ok for joining wires but unusable for board repair. If you want to upgrade to a temperature controlled iron, I recommend Hakko FX-888 which is about $90 on amazon.