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Worked perfectly, player one and two are playing right side up. Thank you everyone for all the help

I attached the picture of the reverse side of the board below, I appreciate all the support and effort everyone has given to figure out what I thought was going to be a simple fix of moving a couple wires. I had no idea this was a bootleg board and it was opening up such a mystery. I’ll recheck...

That’s the information I’ve been giving about pin 19 as well, it was also recommended I remove R146 which I have not looked at yet as I was under the weather all week.

There are spacers to prevent the boards from shorting, if I’ve checked the right place I get zero volts on pin 12 of the 4016’s. I will attach a photo of where I checked to make sure I’m in the right area

The game has always worked this way, had for a long time just never tried to fix it until now, it makes sense that it’s a bootleg board because nothing seems to be marked on the board very well. Tried unplugging the control panel and coin door which changed nothing Player one reads -5 volts on...

Picture of the screen, board and connector

I believe the entire screen is inverted for player 1 then flips for player 2, but with asteroids the only real noticeable change is the scores, tried grounding pin 19 and it did not change anything so it looks like it’s going to be more difficult to find, and my knowledge of the asteroids board...

A little more digging has shown me that transistor Q16 should be turned off and Q17 turned on for the screen to be non inverted for an upright game, according to the information I have this is done by pin 19 not being connected but pin 19 already has no wire connected on my board. I don’t want...

Hello everyone I have an upright asteroids but the board is flipping for a cocktail and player one is always upside down. A search of this forum turned up a few threads that I believe pointed me in the right direction. They said that pin 7 is linked to pin 19 to flip the screen but when I...

Yup that did the trick, up and running good, thanks for the help guys

That was great info, I have never seen a game that has a classic power supply before. So here is where I'm at now I checked all the voltages coming off the power supply and the 5 volts drops to about 3 volts after it runs through the 4 amp fuse. I pulled the fuse and traded it out with a 5 amp(...

This is a super pac man cabinet that that has been converted to play a jr pac man board, the game has been stored for a few years in a non heated garage and now I am only getting about 1.5 volts on the board. My problem is I've never seen a set up like this game before. The power to the board...

Got it working now, it seems like the vertical pot was really rusted up and sticking, cleaned it up and no more problem, will probably go ahead with the cap kit in the future but getting the junior pac man running first is the next priority!

I have a Jungle hunt that was stored in a non heated shed for the last 3 years, I finally got it back in the house, but after all that time it has a few issues(not surprising), the one I'm having trouble with is the picture has a part of the screen from the bottom up on top. Its not rolling its...

I have checked the +5,-5 and +12 and everything checks out good...no shorts I have another power supply packed up somewhere I will try and find it and put it on and see what happens. Thanks for all the input guys, I will post my results...hopefully not another fried power supply

It is a switcher, the game was once a crazy climber that was converted to time pilot(before I owned it) I figured it would just be easier to replace the whole thing unless it was a cheap fix

I recently changed the board connector on a time pilot and ended up frying what I think is some type of coil in the power supply( position L3 in the picture) I cannot find any serial number or manufacturer anywhere on the unit to find a parts list. Question 1 would be can anyone tell what part...

The blue connector with the vice on it is gone now...thats what I removed and the soldered everything to the pcb connector. This is a picture of the current wiring. Thats when it started smoking, I shorted something but cant figure out where

The game is a time pilot that was converted from a crazy climber cocktail before I had it, as you will see in the pictures they used a weird adapter of some kind between the pcb connector and the connections, I dont know why but the game played great so I just left it. The extra connector...

Have you confirmed it is a monitor failure, by coining the game up and seeing if it plays? I know this seems like a silly question but you would be surprised how many people see no picture and point to the monitor being the problem when its a board failure