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so just my luck one of the replacement transistors is bad, one of the legs should read open but its reading .600 where as the others all read open. when I put it in I got a straight line across the screen, put the old one in, and it works fine. sigh. I think its the universe telling me to be...

hmm ok, worth a shot! Thanks for the advice everyone! Ill report back in

yeah those replacements lasted about 10 minutes, then the screen went into a thin line. I put the old ones back and and it works fine. still missing the gap at the top of the screen, but I must just live with it.

replaced q901, still same. i did find online that supposedly the 2SC2703 equiv is a NTE 382, i picked those up, the only concern is the 2703 has a hole in it, and bolted to the heatsink, the NTE382 does not have a hole, is that because the newer NTE doesnt need any heat dissipation?

looks like this guy was having the same issue but the bottom of the screen http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Archive/Rec/rec.games.video.arcade.collecting/2006-12/msg01119.html My local frys have the correct transistor for that small board, I am going to go get it and see if that fixes the issue.

found it, looks like the replacement for 2SC2703 is a 2SC2655 ? does that seem correct?

it does have the board instead of the jumper. it seems ok. it works at least. The one thing I noticed is I have to have the vert raster adjustment all the way down, as soon as I turn it up, i get the raster lines and the bottom of the screen goes too far down, if that makes sense. I just...

I got the cap kit from you I believe, and I just checked all of the caps, they are in the correct direction. Which are the 2 vert transistors I need to look for?

Having vertical issue with K4900 after cap kit pic included I have recapped this board, and did a rejuv on the tube. Everything is pretty good, except no matter how I adjust the vert position and size, IN order to see the bottom, the top is too short and you see raster lines. Here is an example...

I am going to try and hook up a PC to it with a cable i bought from ultimarc. Then I can try and tweak it, and hopefully get it right. Will report back my findings.

so in order to test another source i just ordered this from ultimarc the vga breakout cable, i will use sometihng like powerstirp or advanceMAME to drop down to 15hz for testing, hopefully its just an issue with the board, but still curious what other adjustments i should be doing to adjust...

no, i dont have another game, i would like to turn this into a mame cabinet so i would need the ultimarc cable.

i found that memo, and i check the part numbers, i think they are ok, but will verify again. the yoke ends in 1264 the chassis has 4 white pots and 1 blue pot facing the back and like 3 more that are facing upward on the board.

yeah i removed some solder joints that were connecting to 2 pins, but since this is a bootleg board i probably should have left them, so i went and put them back but no difference, i did have some issues with the +12 wires because they are being soldered directly to the board. I probably need to...

i was trying to look at just general stuff on the board, and there was an IC with 1 leg cut and joined on the back side, i tried undoing that, but i put it all back the way it was, the board is just giving me garbage and no sound like it used to, looks like i messed it up somehow. and the...

correct ,i was looking at this PCB trying to see if there were any issues, and was doing some reflowing and now the board wont boot. monitor still has the issue chopped off at the top , not sure what i am going to do next.

here is a pic of the sync and RGB-ground connector

So i did the rejuv and got all my color back! but, i have having a few issues, there is some color bleed, with the yellow and blue, and also the top part of the screen is squished still as in the pic. any suggestions on what to look at next?

so an update, i did the rejuv with a B7K 470 and i got color!!! but still some issues, the top of the screen is still messed up, kinda folded over, as you can see in the pic, also there are some color bleed, see the attached pics. I already did a cap kit.

after doing more digging, my PCB is a bootleg, its missing the header for the power, which is why its soldered directly to the board.