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Rampage is a good one, I think.

Designing transformers isn't difficult, but building them to spec can be very difficult. One might not even need to take it apart. Winding counts could be inferred from voltage readings and resistance measurements.

Yeah. Someone should design a modern solid state chassis.

Very nifty stuff.

I see this and get nostalgic, too, definitely. So, I go into my basement and warm up my time machine, and I get excited. Then, I realize that going back would mean abandoning all the great games that came out afterwards, so I turn my time machine off and play lots of PC games. EDIT: AND MY...

Tubes with the same adapter listed will have the same neck connector, and tubes that use the same adapter will have the same CR number, however the adapter number won't match the CR number, because the CR numbering scheme was only B&K's nomenclature, IIRC. If you don't find your exact tube...

I bought a truckload of 25" TVs from a hotel that was upgrading to LCD, and every one of them was a 100° tube. I tossed all the plastic bits, so I don't know what the makes or models were. Call around to some lower-end hotels in your area. They might have something.

One can also check here for compatibility: http://tubular.atomized.org/. Just start typing a tube number in the field. Note that this doesn't know about mounting compatibility, only about the yoke impedances, neck connector, and tube size. Even more tubes are compatible if you are willing to...

I'm pretty sure that stuff's all wrong. This is how a TV works: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1A78yTvIY1k

linearity coil?

If you have a variable temp soldering iron, you'll need to turn the iron up, as the copper braid will do a lot of heat sinking. You have to turn it up enough that you heat up the copper braid, and the braid then melts the solder. If you do it right, it will wick away damn near everything that...

Unless yours has had major work done it's gonna be compatible with that tube, if they all didn't come with that tube, so you can effectively pretend that's your tube if you like.

Solder wick is useful when this happens. It's a copper braid that wicks the melted solder away from the board as it melts. VERY useful.

This chip can't split H&V sync signals. Does the game board have split H & V sync out?

The RGB that comes out of boards is analog. The H & V sync signals are digital. On/Off. This means that you can use logic inverters to modify them or merge them. What you want is a 74 series hex inverter. It's a 14-pin chip with 6 inverters. You power the chip with (I think) 5VDC and you...

the cap discharge is loud, but you can discharge it without a pop if you use a 10M 1W resistor to short it. You'll have to hold it for a few seconds, but the resistance will prevent the arcing and high current discharge, and stretch it into a 10 second walk in the park. These resistors are...

Well, I believe the isolation transformer needs to be able to carry 1A of current, but beyond that, and the 1:1 winding ratio, there are no requirements.

That looks like foldover. That what I've always called it, anyway. Your vertical height is enough that the highest lines are actually reflecting off the inside of the tube, or are being sent to the guns before the vertical blanking time has fully passed. If you shrink the vertical height...

The 4900 is a high-impedance chassis, medium-impedance in truth, and every TV I've ever harvested a tube from had a low-impedance yoke. They should match. High goes with high, low goes with low. There is a simple adjustment you can make on a K4900 to make it a low-impedance chassis. JROK has...

That... seems like an easy thing to do. The K7000 remote board just breaks out a lot of the pots. Seems that this could be done for any monitor relatively easily.