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Here are some details on how Magic Eraser works on pinball playfields: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/19#post-1762257

Star Light is a seldom seen game - very cool!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6 Here is a crash course on bulletproofing those games.

Count how many times the LED on the MPU board flashes upon start up. You should have SEVEN total flashes. you should see the first flash, then a pause, then the next 6 flashes. Wherever the flashes stop, that's where to look for the problem. Flicker: MPU reset good, program booted. 1st...

Coils don't lose power. If the wire is still on it, and it's not melted and black from overheating, it is still good. Unless you buy a game from a knowledgeable owner, you can bet it needs a flipper rebuild. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

Job #1 = open the backbox, and cut the battery off of the MPU !!!! This is super important, as once you warm up the game again, it will cause that old battery to leak it's alkali all over the MPU, killing it. Remove it today. Job #2 = New Ball Don't roll that old ball around the playfield...

You can actually get rid of those resistors (and all their heat) with a simple mod: https://pinside.com/.../vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6

Try touching a wire from Ground to the NON-BANDED side of the diode on the pop coil. Does the coil fire?

I used Moldex, the same stuff you use to prevent mold from reforming when a basement floods, house catches fire or hurricane floods. It will kill the mold and keep any spores from starting the process again.

Did you replace the little disc caps on the switches that would trigger the phantom pops?

There will be some bulletproofing to get the game to run 100% https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6 Start with the power supply.

Sure there is a risk. Make sure all your fuses are correct. I'd first get the powersupply rebuilt, and test it without plugging it into the other boards. Do all the ground mods, then add only the CPU.....

Don't bother trying to clean that gunk, just replace the coil sleeves with nylon ones, and rebuild the whole mech. Or, if you want the ultimate flipper performance, replace the old EM style mech with a modern one...

This guide shows how to convert the old Gorgar EM style flippers into responsive, modern flippers (without the crummy conical springs, and the single baseplate): https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/3#post-773606

You need to adjust your EOS gap: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

Is the coil "locked on" or is it "firing all the time"? I suppose a bad coil diode could kill both driver transistors on both boards, thus giving you the always grounded reading. Test the transistor for that coil on the board you currently have out of the machine: Testing TIP102 style of...

While you have the driver board out, there are a bunch of updates to make it bulletproof: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-quick-bally-driver-board-repair-bulletproofing

Rebuild the whole flipper mechs - you will be so glad you did! https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers/page/6#post-1097688

Coin cells are less likely to leak, but you do still sometimes find them in very leaked condition.

You could use a Lithium battery, just don't mount it directly to the MPU. Run 24" of wire and mount it to the side of the head. That way if it explodes, leaks or outgasses, it won't kill your circuit board.