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^^^ I got exactly the same measurement on my Scramble. The triangle at the back is 2 5/8" high and starts 3 1/2" from the rear edge of the side panel. This might not be accurate though, since my cabinet was chewed up really bad in this area originally, so I had to guess the dimensions when...

Thanks for your response. I brought the width in by adjusting the L703 coil since the width pot on the remote board was already turned down all the way. I still have no control over the pincushion. The P764 daughterboard seems to be doing nothing. If I unplug it, the picture barely changes...

I have a Wells-Gardner U2000 monitor that looks pretty nice, but has quite substantial pincushioning. Is there a way to fix this? I read in another thread that the little upright P764 daughterboard is for pincushion correction, but adjusting the two pots on that board has no effect besides...

Thin the paint with mineral spirits. I did this when I painted my Galaga and it looks silky smooth - no bubbles, no orange peel, looks like it was sprayed.

It's likely the "Red" signal going from the PCB to the monitor has an intermittent connection. My Pac-Man does this occasionally and it goes away when I reseat the edge connector.

100% working Galaxian PCB. $75 USD shipped

It's a $20 7" Panasonic LCD monitor that I picked up many years ago. There's some information in this old thread: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=100481 It actually has RGB/Composite Sync inputs and syncs to 15kHz, so no converter is required. The rest is just a Jamma...

That's like $15 USD! ;) Asking $170 USD, sorry, just edited my post with the currency.

No idea why some are blue and some are green. Maybe they switched PCB fabs as some point. Yes, it's an original 4-stack.

No reasonable offer refused, especially if it saves me a trip to the post office. Will even deliver for free in the Kanata area. ;)

Fully working, 2-board set, TKG4-11. $170 USD shipped.

Fully working, $130 shipped.

+1 It works fine. I've tested many, many Pac boards on my bench with a DC supply.

Bootlegs are usually much more difficult to repair if any troubleshooting is required. When there are substantial changes to components, component numbering, PCB layout, etc. the board will no longer match the original schematics. It's a huge pain in the ass to troubleshoot a board for which...

A replacement IC piggybacked and soldered on top of a failed one. I've seen this a few times recently.

Why do you have a GFCI here in the first place? Usually these are only required for wet locations, like around a swimming pool or in a bathroom.

aka Dr. Frankenstein's laboratory.

That socket is fucked. Looks like someone beat on it with a hammer. Definitely replace it.

I used X10 appliance modules in the past, but found them to be unreliable. Now I use the cheap remote outlets from Walmart, something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Woods-13569-Plug-In-Wireless-Control/dp/B003ZTWYXY