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It has been done already, here.

They aren't unobtanium either, very easy to find.

Wrong amp and fake chip circled. If it's works and you're happy then great but bootlegs for less money work too or playing it in mame also works. Guess I'm just a purist and would be swapping both those parts for originals if it were my board. :) You might find some sounds don't sound quite...

The wrong amplifier is bodged in place and they've replaced the surface mount sound chip with a fake one on your A board.

I think they all do it, mine certainly does.

How important is low resistance on tube ground (aquadag) to the neckboard / frame? I am trying to track down a video noise issue on a Sanyo 20ez and noticed the ground strapping wires on the tube are a little corroded and it's done some damage to the aquadag on the tube. Using a meter it's still...

It's very easy to get around Nintendo copywrite issues if you make it free / open source. :)

John (Blkdog7), Adam (OneCircuit) and Arcade Impossible all seemed to vanish at the same time, I suspect they killed a hooker in Vegas and made a pact to keep their heads down after that.

We need to get the 3D1000 done now. ;)

The caps and resistors are surface mount (and tiny) :LOL: but yeah I copied the original design.

Pcbs finally arrived and I assembled one, I decided to use my DK power supply because it needs recapping anyway. I open it up and...... what the hell is this 3D-1001B? B? hmm it has pin 1 on the right unlike the A which has it on the left.... maybe the same as A with reversed pinout? I guess...

@DIYPinball did you fix this? was it the LA5112? I've got the exact same problem.

Oh nice, what did you use to display the last image? TPG?

I've just fully recapped a Sanyo 20EZ and replaced all the pots and it looks so much better than it did but I've noticed what looks like a purity issue in the bottom right corner. The first picture of Mario is what he looks like in bottom left, top left and top right corner but in the bottom...

Any updates on this? sounds like a mario bros board issue if multiple people have found popeye pcbs don't have the hum in the same cabinet. I had a 4 stack DK with terrible hum and it was very much the board at fault as outside the cabinet on the bench with a switcher it still had hum.

Recap full clean and a new fan is a must with these SUN psus. Even if the voltage 'looks' stable if it's on original caps they let through too much AC and kill boards.

K thanks for replying, I'll report back if I figure it out.

Did you ever solve this? I did find a youtube repair video where in his case it was caused by a bad 10125. Not sure if it is always a case of bad ECL though, I've seen a lot of videos of boards showing this issue but from what I can see no one else is talking about it or has figured it out exactly.

I think we both ended up with a harness from a standard size cabinet which has a different coin door with no bulbs so no need for the 5v wire. It looks like Nintendo just hacked the wires in rather than making a special harness for the widebody though.

I had the exact same issue and my harness didn't have the bodge connectors that Kanstiss's pictures show. I had to join coin 1 to both mechs since coin 2 isn't wired at the edge connector and run a wire for 5v to the edge connector for the bulbs in the end.