Thanks all
I used kona brown,gloss cherry,antique white all rustoleum.
The only color that wasn't rustoleum is the yellow,I went with satin bright yellow valspar from lowes.
I prob have 2 weeks in the body work and painting,and clear.
Thanks,yeah it is a little scary but this is the first time I cut out only the parts that get paint with about 1/4 inch of the sticky showing so as to not peel any of the previous paint underneath and it worked out good.
Gamestencils.com has the colors listed if you are gonna use latex.
I used spray cans to get a smoother finish,the only color I can remember is the kona brown.
I can list the others after I get back home.
I got the stencils from gamestencils.com
The paint for the most part is rustoleum products ,primer and paint.
I used spray cans,I wanted the cabinet as smooth as possible.
I started work on the power brick and making hopefully my last parts order.
I Made sure to spray the cab with primer,i used an automotive filler primer from a can.
And Rustoleum spray cans for the colors.
The biggest thing that helped with the stencils were instead of removing the backing i trimmed around the cutouts and only removed that part.
So as to have as little...
Picked up a rough joust recently that had most of the original wiring and monitor but has been converted to an odd ball Kung fu game, but since the wiring was there I figured I would go for it and do an as original restore as I could.
So here goes...
I know this doesn't help fix yours but I just replaced mine with this one http://www.pinballpcb.com/System6-7SoundBoard.html
I went with the combo board
And it works great.
This thing is over 30 years old and I didn't want to keep chasing sound problems.
Title says it all.
Mainly interested in a DW but there are a few others i will consider.
pics here
http://www.flickr.com/photos/67565915@N06/sets/72157639270442015/
I am including the original Ron Jeremy Dracula and crypt so it can be put back if needed.