Search results for query: clean legs inner outer faces ROM*

Also, another thing to consider is whether this could be a thermally-related issue. If it's a ROM issue, it could be a matter of the board cutting out when you get to a point in the code that resides in a bad ROM. However if it's thermal, it may be a matter of cutting out after a certain...

If the sockets were that corroded, the ROM legs are going to have a thick layer of crap on them too. You're going to need to file or 1000-grit sandpaper between the legs of each ROM (i.e., where they make contact with the ZIF socket on your burner, which is different from how they make contact...

Always check voltages first. Always. And always set the 5V so you measure 5.00V on the chips themselves. Not at the PS, or before any connectors, as the voltages that the chips 'see' is what's measured on their pins (or a test point on the board, which should be the same), and when...

Dremel flat stainless wire wheel. (You can use the brass ones too, I prefer the stainless.) https://www.ebay.com/itm/304613261934 One thing that's important to do is to 'break in' the wheel when it's new, by grinding it against a thick piece of scrap metal for about 20 seconds. This bends...

Welcome to the world of ROMs. What others have said applies. The file you're trying to load is larger than the device type you have selected in the GQ-4X software. Working with ROMs can be more of an art than a science sometimes. There are a number of tricks I've figured out over the years...

Excellent demonstration. For you and @Londo7's benefit, there's one additional detail I'd wished you showed in that video. You cleaned the outer legs ok, but the next step is to tile the Dremel 90 degrees, and get the brush up and under the ROM, to clean the *inner* faces of the legs...

If the board was working, there's no way multiple ROMs went bad all at once. Testing ROMs is not always straightforward. Any time you have a ROM that doesn't read right, the first thing to do is clean the legs. Inner and outer faces, as well as BETWEEN the legs, as this is where most ROM...

Yes, as ATGW said, the most likely cause (and first place to start) is to clean the chip legs. People think the chips or sockets are bad, and spend all sorts of time replacing sockets and hacking up boards. But most of the time there's just a spot of oxidation where the chip lets touch the...

You should pull all socketed chips, clean the legs with a Dremel that has a wire wheel brush (cleaning the inner AND outer faces of the legs). Then take some DeOxit, spray some into a small jar, and paint some onto the chip legs with a small art paintbrush. Then reseat the chip a couple of...

The original fingers are fine in your case, so there's no need to replace or repair any fingers. People are leading you down the wrong path in the above posts. If you have 5.00V on the game board, your edge connector is fine, and they are rarely an issue on Asteroids. Personally I don't...

AR is an AR-I-01 for Asteroids. These are different than the AR-I-03 from Ast Deluxe, and the AR-II's used in everything else. I sent you the other answers via PM, but I'll repaste my reply here for anyone reading. (Also, you can Advanced Search threads for posts containing 'watchdogging'...

Regarding the AR, you never need to replace the caps on these. The original Nichicons are always still good. The one thing you absolutely DO need to replace is the 2N3055 bottlecap transistor. The originals on these are 40 years old and have tens of thousands of hours on them. They are the...

Now tell me again how it was a TTL issue. Always check the simple stuff before the more complicated stuff. This is repair 101 shit. Millipede boards are also more prone to socket issues, from people shoving the Braze kits into them, which trash the sockets due to the fat pins Braze used...

Regarding the 'blank' ROM, often times you'll see this, and the ROM will actually still be good. Noobs might throw it out thinking it's bad (and sometimes they actually are). However one thing you should always do is clean the legs of the chip with a Dremel fitted with the thin wire wheel...

I'll push back slightly on Ed's comments about mixing metals for chips. I repair mostly Atari PCB's. Atari used gold sockets with tin chips on many boards (though not consistently, as they appear to have mixed and matched with whatever they had available). But I can say from years of doing...

When you have 'burns ok but plays bad on the game board' issues, just try writing them again with the GQ-4X. I see these occasionally as well (just for random chips, from random manufacturers), and almost always they'll work after another burn. (No erase, just overwrite them again). You're...

The v2 set only differs by one ROM. In the v1 set, the 036414-01 ROM's checksum is 4263, and for v2, 036414-02 is 412D. All others are the same between the two, and the actual difference that the change implements is not known. Note there are zip files floating around the web that are...

Sockets, sockets, sockets. They are the achilles' heel on these things. If you have the gold Amp twin-leaf ones, you can get away with just cleaning them with DeOxit. (Get a can of it, period, if you don't have one already.) But if they are the type that pinch the legs at two points...