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Good one for a necro: We need these on. If your original or replacement flyback does not have these on please harvest one and install. This essentially spreads out the high voltage evenly across the anode cap hole aquadag conductive coating. Spreading it out, eliminating a tiny contact point...

Nice dynamo cabinet I miss those! Yes indeed I am celebrating 20 years this coming may. I would love to repair, recondition and analyze your SF monitor board set for you. The full service goes beyond just bringing a picture back. Lots of key points checked, pcb goes under a microscope along...

you should be able to get away with a k7000 small neck to replace your K7700 if indeed a fly is unable to be found. Not ideal however I have seen things run in acceptable tolerance using one off those. right now I dont have any of those flys off the shelf , unless if i dig some more. I might...

I am seeing it specifically bad on circulating k7000 flys and k7500/74000 .. best to keep the oem originals in if its working without issue for any model. There are also ways to patch minor case leaking on the focus / g2 divider correctly and clean looking . takes awhile to build it up.

Check your heater voltages if you're concerned about the cathode life span in your tube. The nominal 6.3ac heater voltage is what most of our monitors are set to be at in spec. By raising it just 10% above specification this increases the rate of depletion by approximately 50%! The extra cathode...

Those look sick nice! good to get new ideas and perspective on other future possibilities with those hayseed spawned caps. As for the question about the transformer tape thing I have the explanation in the middle of the page. Ill move it on the top under the rest of the text probably easy to...

Its strong, stable and looks decent. It would be able to survive some fairly heavy impacts and not go anywhere. This is how I do them which is automatically included in the repair service for the black and white monitor board platters that uses the multi cap cans...

my bad missed the part where you said a test pattern gen produces a blue on it. then yea either game board or wiring.

very quickly and carefully short blue pin tube to common ground / monitor frame and if your tube flushes blue then its your monitor board or hydro board.

I could ship you an oem nos BU2532_AL to Canada first class mail.. send / pm me address if you interested in quote.. $12.50 + exact shipping cost.

A chirp on those is usually a shorted semiconductor somewhere on the board.. or other component .. there can be other reasons. start by checking the horizontal output transistor to see if thats shorted. if it is, it may blow again because it did the first time because of of other reasons...

why a new yoke too? find a new tube with the exact same yoke or port the yoke of the bad tube onto the new if that does not have the same yoke.

Ok thats on the website now too under width coils. known good pull

you probably already have the yoke plugs i sell from my website in your shopping cart.. putting a new yoke plug on if you are splicing it make sure you go heavy or properly insulate that on the horizontal portion. red/blue wires. otherwise you can cut away the old one right at the yoke terminals...

try another signal source / game for sure .. could be

so your up and backing running now? but that geometry looks awfully funky.. if you are still triggering a shutdown at a 130v b+ driving everything close to 15.7khz still (a locked image would verify that without tools if it stays on long enough) then its either the pot is not set right or your...

how did the research go?

another option here