Search results for query: in-circuit transistor* resistor*

Not really. There's no real shotgun kit for these deflection boards. Most of the issues stem from broken solder joints on the headers, which then causes the whole deflection system (LV board, frame transistors, and transistors on the board) to nuke. You can test Q603/604/703/704 in circuit...

This might not be the hobby for you in that case. Electronics repair is a skill, and you get better by continuously learning and practicing. Think of it like learning to play a musical instrument. You can't watch a 2-minute video and be an expert. It's a slow process you build over time...

Yes, it's possible. But less likely if you can't find anything obviously shorted on the deflection board. But this is just a fact of life working on vectors. You always want spare frame transistors on hand, and for tricky problems you might end up blowing a few to figure out what's wrong...

Test all 6 frame transistors from the header connectors, with the connectors unplugged from the deflection board. Procedure is explained in my 6100 bring-up guide: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=404600 I'm guessing you may have a bad LV board. Especially if it is any of...

Not likely, in my experience. Normally the B+ is proportional to the HV, where you should have around 180V DC for an HV level of 19kV at the anode. (Give or take, it varies from cage to cage, so you can't use the B+ to calibrate the HV, you really need to measure it at the anode and adjust...

It's actually uncommon for the fuse to blow before anything else on these. A blown fuse almost always is a result of something else on the deflection board blowing first. And yes, I agree about not using substitute bottlecaps. 3716/92 are the way to go. Especially for b/w's, which are not...

Blown frame transistors almost always means something else is blown on the deflection board. So you don't just want to throw more transistors in there unless you feel like wasting $6 each. You just need to test all of the parts on the deflection board that correspond to whichever axis has the...

This. Using my guide is the best way to avoid and catch problems BEFORE they damage other boards in the system, when bringing up any unknown-condition 6100 boards: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=404600 The worst thing that can happen if you follow the guide is that you will...

Keep in mind you can use the X and Y centering pots on the game board to adjust the DC value of the XOUT and YOUT voltages are averaging zero. They'll float around up and down a volt or two, but you just want to make sure neither is stuck at more than a couple of volts, as that indicates...

R620 is getting hot because something is forcing the beam to draw off the edge of the tube. That's why you're just seeing a faint glow on part of the tube. The beam is railed, and is actually drawing on the inner side of the tube, not the face. R620 isn't the problem, it's a symptom of...

Be aware that Asteroids AR's will measure artificially high when there is no load (i.e., game board not plugged in). You should see about 6.2V at the 5V test point on the AR with no load, which will come down to 5V when the game board is plugged in. This is normal for Asteroids. Many people...

Don't install a bigger fuse. Test all frame transistors, and then the 4 finned transistors on the deflection board, and then all of the smaller transistors above the 4 heatsinked ones. Use my 6100 guide to test the frame transistors, from the connectors. The procedure for each pair is...

To clarify some of the info here: - The correct AR for a Missile Command is an AR-II-03. (AR-II, Version -03). An AR-III is a different AR, used in later games like Paperboy and Marble Madness. The AR-II-03 is similar to the AR-II-02, and some MC's have -02's in them. We aren't sure...

A couple of things here: - Don't go replacing bottlecaps or anything else until you know more. You're only more likely to make things worse. - The YOUT DC voltage runs high on Tempest game boards, and it's normal to see it spike as high as 3V or so during attract mode. This happens when...

These deflection systems will often nuke when one of any number of things goes wrong. You usually get a chain of failures, that cascades and blows a bunch of stuff. One bad joint causes a loose connection, which causes one of the transistors to rail, shorting itself, then burning up a bunch...

- Q900 probably isn't bad. They almost never are. Are you measuring it removed from the circuit? You'll need to. Also, the base is not the center pin. But it's probably fine. Also, make sure it has the insulator washer on the inside, behind the nut, as that is necessary, in addition to...

You probably have other stuff blown, and it looks like it's mostly on that one side, which is the X axis (as the X and Y axes are basically two copies of the same circuit, with X on the left, and Y on the right.) Also be aware that on that board, X means the long axis of the tube, i.e., with...

Ok, let's break things down: - If your game board is playing blind, AND you've tested the XY outputs from the game board, and they're in the valid range, then your game board is not the issue. This is a monitor problem. - If your spot killer LED is on, that means you do not have deflection...

There are plenty of other hacky things you can do in this hobby. That doesn't mean you should, nor should you be encouraging people to do them. Especially when it comes to running things at higher powers than what they were originally designed for. That's irresponsible, even if it works...

Do did you fix the HV? For the distortion, this could be a tricky one. You should test all resistors (most you can do in-circuit), as you can get burned ones that are not always obvious on these. Past that, it could also be a marginal transistor, or possibly something with the LV power...