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Thanks to everyone who helped bring this monitor back to life-- And for your patience when it came to details I should have been able to look up. My trained background is digital, so I've always worried about monitors going out... This is more in-depth than I've had to get on a monitor up to...

I basically resoldered everything in the 700 area, and then it was happy-- I couldn't tell you exactly which connection it was, since I did everything before plugging it in again.

And there we have it!

P314 -- No daughterboard. Cap soldered in on top of R602. Q705 seems to be good to the pins. (I'm focusing on Q705 because https://www.vectorlist.org/Documents/6100_faq.pdf indicates this is the one responsible for the positive X deflection) Looking for loss of connectivity between parts...

Was hoping Q705 was bad, but it appears to be ok.

R901 and R907 replaced. Didn't leave the monitor on long, but I'm back to the original problem, where there's nothing displayed on the right side of the monitor (horizontally mounted). Likely compressed to the center, and not getting positive X deflection. This is fantastic-- I've at least...

Sorry about that. I didn't know to search for BZX85C13-ND. Thanks for the link.

Ok, assuming that all the electrolytic caps are covered, and the resistors, I believe that leaves: * HV pot (which I think is ok, but will replace if suggested) * ZD900 - 13V 1W (From Atari manual) * ZD901 - 13V 1W (From Atari manual) * ZD902 - 150V 1W (From Atari manual) Of course, the manual...

Unfortunately, the APAR website doesn't say what parts it includes in its kit. I have that, and replacement R901/907 resistors on the way. The pot in the middle looks new-ish. I'm only worried about it, like any other part, having been blown when things went bad. The pot on the side looks...

Thanks! (Particularly for the link. Helped avoid confusion.) Ordering a batch of those... Now I wait for that and the cap kit to arrive, re-do everything, and I'll report back.

(I'll order a new kit from APAR today, but I'm guessing they aren't a problem yet)

You're both right, and sharper-eyed than I am. R901 is blown -- I believe it's completely open. (Took it out, voltmeter constantly reading 0L, but doesn't pass the continuity test) 2.2k Ohm, 2W resistor, according to the Atari docs... But the color bands should start with Red, Red, Red in that...

C901 and C902 look fine, unfortunately. I don't see anything visibly wrong with any of the parts on the board... Included a picture in case there was something obvious I'm missing.

I installed a cap kit from Twisted Quarter earlier this year. HV Parts replaced: * Q901 * Q902 * Q903 * C905 * C909 * C910 * C914 On neck board: * C503 Everything was working fine for a few months... I'm thinking I blew something with my attempts to fix the half-screen issue.

Ok, just as a check since I don't have a high voltage meter yet, I looked at B+ on the neckboard. Tested the neckboard with a regular voltmeter, with positive on the orange wire, negative on chassis. -.02V. Seems like nothing, just noise. Pulled the monitor, brought it to the bench to have a...

Well, I replaced the 337 with the 317. Now 26v and -26 shows correctly. Replaced the 2N3716. Power-on without board: spot killer lit. Power on with board: spot killer off. Hook everything up... Nothing on the screen. Has neck glow, so that's something. No fuses blow. Guess I need to get...

Wasn't a long search-- it was on the top of my "things to install" pile. And indeed, it has two LM317s. Ok, so the question is what to do at this point... 1) is replacing the 337 with the 317 sufficient, or should I look for any damage this might have caused before doing the voltage test...

I didn't realize I had a second kit... Don't think I installed it anywhere... Both seem to be LM 337s, though. (Man... parts are hard to read when you get older) I'll start checking my other vector games and electronics boxes to see if I can find the other kit. I would have expected that my...

It's not worth debugging the board? Side note: My board looks the same that Charles discusses here: https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/how-to-assemble-and-install-a-lv6100.488042/

Ok, pulled the monitor entirely, just hooked up the deflection board and the game board (which is working). Both LEDs light. Testing pin 6 gave me -27. Just to be safe, I adjusted the pot to get it to -26. Testing pin 3 gave me 30v. Adjusting the second pot had _no_ effect on the voltage...