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It is going real good, and real busy... been working as a arcade tech for a large arcade opening in a few weeks, been fixing monitors like crazy! How bout you?

LOL that is funny, until she starts smokin! I use miniture circuit breakers with alligator clips attached in place of the fuse until I get the issue figured out... saves time and money, you can buy them from BoB! http://www.therealbobroberts.net/cirbreaker.html

Never had an issue ever with Arcadeshop.... Top Notch stuff, no junk, ships fast etc. etc. Good People!

The 2nd Anode on the flyback is the one that packs over 20-25,000 volts, it can kill you if you make a dumb mistake.

Check R89!

Yep this is a good teacher - the K7000 are kind of a bitch at first, but don't get disappointed. There is already enough info posted on KLOV forums to fix just about any problem on this chassis. Take your time. Don't be discouraged if it just doesn't snap to life on your first attempt. When...

Pay special attention to the joints on the larger resistors...and go ahead and cap that board for starters, just get it out of the way before you go trying to troubleshoot other issues.

I think C57 is the one that causes the most probs cap wise, but in my experience it seems like it is always a bad trace or resistor causing no HV.

If you are standing behind the monitor, Set your voltmeter to DC 200v, on the left side of the chassis there is a big white rectangular resistor, put one lead from the voltmeter on the terminal of the resistor closest to you and the other on the frame. There is your B+. These chassis are great...

Here is what you need to know.... you are welcome, http://www.therealbobroberts.net/k7000.html

I understand now, and will hang a while longer. Thanks for the outstretched hand!

Thanks for the heads up Deadly! I was just informed through a PM what the whole Davez deal was about. Maybe he does deserve this, but if his feedback was shit, maybe you folks should have smelled the bullshit beforehand. It still doesn't make what he did to Bitslicer OK. I hope everything...

Okay, so I am back. LOL! Just have to clarify a few things: Last time I even touched a 2600 was back in 1984. I have never burned anybody... a handshake is a man's word, and a deal is a deal. Anyone who has dealt with me (you few klovers know who you are) knows I keep my word...

Wow, I can't believe this shit! It is worse than Ebay. I was going to list some really nice stuff for sale here but now I am for sure not going to. This place is just like the rest of the F*cking internet. Just a bunch of spammers, scammers and full time losers here. It is really sad...

Just out of respect I started sending my check by Priority Mail. It costs more but come on, when was the last time your package was late from BoB?......Never. I will continue to do this from now on. I have had the regular mail delay my payment one time, and I am never going to chance having...

I have a bizarre sense of humour, sorry if I offended, I thought you were trying to be funny. My apologies! I had envisioned a 6502 praying for death in a EPROM burner, which if it wasn't real expensive would be kinda funny to me. The fact you can write code for the 6502 says your knowledge...

Every type and brand of EPROM takes a different amount of time to erase, If you let them go too long in the eraser they will be ruined for good. I usually start with 10 minutes and the try to blank check them in the programmer, if they don't pass blank check, I stick them the eraser for another...

For those who didn't get the joke.... 6502 is a cpu, they can execute code, but not be programmed like a EPROM. still funny!

Using a Mag-stik plus can be compared to difference between wearing a condom or not as far as feel goes, buy one and you will see what I mean.

Just because the RAM is found to be bad doesn't mean that is the problem. To keep it simple - other chips that address the RAM may be the real issue causing the self test to say it is bad because the RAM isn't resopnding.