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I dunno what his schedule is. I just know I have a stack of dogs I need sig analysis to get running.

I got with him a couple weeks back and he said he had just sold the last one. No mention of another run in the works....

Looking for one of these. Billtronix is out of stock. Anyone have one they wanna part with?

I'm not worried about cap kits. I buy good quality caps in bulk. Plus I replace the main filter cap while the thing is apart...its time (non switching type monitors). Just concerned with the flyback reliability and DOA problems. I maintain 200+ games and don't have time to waste on questionable...

I find myself in need of another batch GO7 flybacks. Competitive has great pricing on qty buys, how is the quality of these? Anyone have direct experience? http://www.competitiveproducts.com/list.php?id=43

The wiring is a mess....I didn't build it. But if there's power to both JAMMA connectors it seems like it should work. Does anyone....ANYONE have the pinout for the little 3/4 plyr board with the keypad switches on it? I need this info to verify the wiring for the 3/4 plyrs.

Something else happening that doesn't make any sense is the 1 plyr button 2 sw is adding credits in addition to the normal game function. Checked with a meter....the sw lines are *not* shorted together.

All the program mode/plyr 2 s1 does is bringf up the 4 plyr game list. Still no switch function. Nothing is recognized in the MAME menu.

Found the 4 plyr list. Jumped 5v to the main JAMMA connector....still no 3/4 plyr function. Software doesn't recognize the inputs via MAME menu. Juuuust about ready to drag it outside and burn it....

Gawd I hate these things. I had to hack into the internal PSU wiring to get pwr to the 3/4 plyr board. Should there be 5v at the main board edge connector? I see 12 there where it should be, but no 5v. Got the 1/2 plyr buttons to work now, but have no function on the 3/4 plyr switches....any of...

I'm having issues with one of these as well. The pinout for the 1 and 2 player #5/6 buttons doesn't match up and there is no function for those. No info out there that I can find and even those who sell them can't tell me whats up with it. So done with these Chinese pieces of shit...

Is there any documentation out there for the i/o board that is used for 4 player cabs? Got one here that I installed into a cab that was built for the 2019, but built wrong. There was no switch wires connected to the #5 and 6 switches for plyr 1 and 2. Connecting the #5 wire according to the...

Ok, the 2019 in 1 project I got thrown in the middle of has ground to a halt. The board will load the "baby star" splash screen and after a few seconds will go blue screen. I'm assuming the hard drive is corrupted. Is there an image somewhere online to make a new drive? Or some place to obtain a...

What I need to end up with is CGA mode for a std res monitor. There is wiring off the JAMMA connector for video output. Does this board not use it? At any rate....I had to kludge fix the audio by making a cable to go from the PC audio out jack straight to the L/R vol pots. So I have sound now...

This is the 4 plyr board. The video button does nothing in our out of setup mode. IN setup there is the option of switching video output modes, and that is what is not doing its job (the runtime error).

I know little to nothing about the 2019 in 1 setups but got dragged into installing one that was wired up by someone else. No documentation...although I found a manual online which doesn't have alot of info. First off...when in the setup menu to change video modes I get a "runtime error 53" and...

I've seen more Tantalum cap supernovas in the old Midway stuff than anything else. Especially CCRS and MCR boards.

The "shake" you see is an artifact of interlaced video. You notice it most on white areas. Its normal and nothing can be done to "correct" it. Most arcade games from that era were progressive scan (which appears rock solid with no flicker or jitter), but there were exceptions.

Clean every socketed chip on *all* boards. If the problem persists, its likely the 4116 ram sockets on the video board. I was having similar troubles with a Qix and replaced the ram sockets with good quality dual wipe types. I also converted the board for 4164 ram instead of the 4116 and its...

Heatsink on a TDA2002 is gnd....it won't cause a hum. You need to touch the underside of the board (at the amp chip pins) to get the hum.