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saettle CL too

Added the new cap today board came up fine. Spot killer went off had deflection noise but no screen. I had no glow on the neck. Upon looking over my work I put the wrong resistor in at r107 fixed that and it works. The only problem I have is the monitor looked gaused (sp?) when in the cabinet...

Thats a big hell MF'n ya

I would get one

I use the Aoyue 474A+ got it for less then 100 bux works great i love it

try this it is well written and has a good troubleshooting walk through http://www.kfu.com/~nsayer/games/tempest.html

Well you would think if I took the time to take the voltages I would have checked for ripple but no. So I did today and found +5 volts looked like a McDonalds logo. Checked 10.6 under and not under load ripple on both. Checked the big blue capacitor on the power supply Open line and it sounds...

ok took voltages of all the boards test points the ar II 36v = 18.5 +22 = +24 +12 = +12 -5 = -5.5 +10.3 = +9.1 main board +5 = + 4.5 coinl 3.0 coinc 3.1 slam 3.2 coin r 3.2 6.8 = 6.7 +15 = +14.7 x out .4 y out 1.4 +5dac = 4.5 vctr .3 halt 3.1 wddis 1.2 catst 0 pwr rst 2.7 -15 =-14.9 -22 =...

I have not checked the voltages directly off the ar2. When I check the voltages off the test points of the tempest boards all the voltages fall in too acceptable ranges all a little low but no more the 1.5 volts at the most. I will check the voltages off the ar2 when I get home. If anything i...

no ideas ?

Ok found the x and y outs on the board when I hook my scope up in x y mode with 2 volts division I get junk no real screen. The voltages at all my test points on the board are correct and the frequencies are correct too.

So I bought this tempest cocktail. When you turn it on the screen looked all squished up in fact you could not even tell if it was the actual tempest screen. So I rebuilt the monitor using bobs deluxe kit.. Now when I turn it on I get nothing and the spot killer led is lit. I checked everything...

I have had digital in the past I prefer analog. They are more reliable IMHO and easier to calibrate

the hakko 936 http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=hakko+936&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&cid=5868073303387345268&sa=X&ei=0CZ1TZL5GZDWtQPpgojcCw&ved=0CEgQ8wIwAg# Best iron i have ever used heats fast and recovers fast

all esr's work in circuit

I get mine off of ebay http://computers.shop.ebay.com/Internal-Desktop-/56083/i.html?_nkw=20+gb+hd&_catref=1&_fln=1&_trksid=p3286.c0.m282 The image came off a maxtor diamond I think i can verify when I get home

What brand Of supply is it ? Is it similar to a tekbuilt? the normal black switcher with the screw terminal ?

I do have to say one thing that really impressed me about the Blue esr meter is when I was building it I switched two of the caps on the board. So when the time came to use it I could not calibrate it or zero the leads. Lucky for me it has a self diagnosis mode the error code lead me right to...

I have the blue esr meter. It has saved me plenty of time. When I recapped my arkanoid monitor the symptoms got worse after checking the caps I found 2 brand new bad caps. I never would have found with out it.

You don't know the people I grew up with then.