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Trying to bring a World Rally back to life and need the steering wheel assembly (don't need the pedal but if you have it also that would work). Shipped to USA 98272

Just found this thread and have been trying to follow along. If those are MSPAINT pictures, you are a wizard in paint :)

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At 3 am, I am that Idiot :) And as I am making my own harness's I haven't found a good way to mark the connectors in a permanent way.

When I changed one of my units over to molex (before learning that these connectors are still available), I added a key pin because I didn't want it to be possible to connect power to the wrong place. I made Pin one of connector A reversed gender, then pin 2 of Connector B, etc. That way it is...

Thanks, don't know why I didn't figure that out years ago. Got samples from TE and verified it all fits. One thing was that they don't use the common "Amp" 0.84 pins, the commercial mate-n-lok use the same size but they are longer shafted without the shoulder.

Can anyone confirm / deny that there is a key pin on the connectors? I have two units and one had key pins and the other just had female pins on the unit. I don't have any of the original cables to see what they had. The pdf that shows the pinouts doesn't list any key pins.

What was in that owners manual?

Have a Juno First on the bench: Pin 11 Low (not marked on schematic) 14 pulse (AB8) 16 low (not marked on schematic) 18 pulse (inverted from pin 10 of the 81 custom) 27 pulse (ME anded output from the address decode pal when not selecting ROMS A,B or C) More for posterity. Wondering if I...

Has anyone ever figured out what molex connector part number was used? Or what size pins they were?

I have dedicated shop space for this reason. And am working on building more.

I have been fixing vector boards for decades. And still do it on a regular basis (done a dozen tempest / asteroids in the past year alone).

Love the work you did on all this, was wondering if Hydro thunder & Voodoo3 ever got verified?

Where did you get the reproduction bug trap?

A quick comment on why the 74ls153 didn't work but the 74153 did. LS stands for Low Power Schottky. And LS parts tend to have an allowable fanout (how many things they can drive) of 5 or so. Beyond that they can't be guaranteed to provide enough current to the downstream parts. The original...

What are the LED's next to the battery showing? Are all 3 on solid?

Yeah that didn't make sense to me either. But I can't get into my machine at the moment to look at the motor plate and check. So went with the above.

Did a little looking, I think the Dayton 2M168 is probably a reasonably close motor. https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-DC-Permanent-Magnet-Motor-2M168 RPM is a bit lower as is the full load amps but it's 1/2HP which should be 372watts. So I think it would work. Question is can you mount...

Anyone have good pictures of the bellows connections to the inside motion part of the game? My bellows are attached on the outside using the metal clamp's from Sega but the "operator" mod of some double sided Velcro isn't working out so well on the inside. The manual mentions some nature of...

Did you get any response back on the caster replacements? My cab has had all 4 original casters removed and someone welded on some underrated replacements (3 of which have broken off the plate). I saw some 5" casters at Lowes rated at 350 but would have to weld them in place on the corners...