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So it seems maybe I've bitten off more than I can chew here :). I bought an original Pacman cocktail table, that at one point someone had converted to a Beastie Feastie (otherwise known as The Glob). I've always wanted a ms pacman cocktail machine so I thought, hell this can't be hard, right...

I'd check the opto boards for a cold solder joint as well. I have the same problem with mine, anytime the ball hits something on the playfied to cause a decent vibration it sets it off. I searched around for an answer and the cold solder joint was a suggestion. I hope to dive into mine this...

Sorry I just sold it, haven't had time to update the post. Thanks.

one last bump... throw an offer out if mildly interested. worst i can say is no :)

another bump for a monday

bump for the night.

For sale or for trade is a working Virtua Racing Upright that I purchased a couple years back after an arcade in the area shut down. Complete fully working as far as I can tell. Also comes with manual, another set of pedals (parts usage only), and some extra working boards. I just don't have...

I had the same issue when I picked up mine up. It ended up being the pot for the gas pedal was shot. You could fire it up in test mode (switch inside the coin door) and check the values of the Accel field, should start from 00 and max out between 90 and AO according to the manual once you press...

Well, I spoke too soon. Found I had put in the ram 8 chip in incorrect which was giving me the ram 6 error. After I sorted that out still getting the error. At this point I think it's time to look into getting the board fixed by a pro.

Well finally got back to this after the holidays this week. I ended up fixing the Ram 8 error by doing the following: - Replaced wiring harness as it was pretty hacked, with a different one. - Found out the other harness was setup for a switcher, so I figure why not, having power issues anyway...

Replaced R1, LED still not lit up. So went ahead and put a new LED in it and bingo it lights up now. Still get an Ram 8 error though, but at least its encouraging that I'm making some sort of progress fixing something, although at a slow pace it seems. So I'm going to revisit Dick's...

Yea that's where I'm heading next on this. I'm going to replace the LED and the resistor that feeds power to it since I didn't replace that with the others last time. Hopefully this week I can get back to it. I'll report back where I'm at next after that. Thanks,

Well, I replaced resistors R169 and R170. I also went ahead and replaced the diode. Checked 7E pins 18 and 20 for less than 1v and verified that was correct. So I still don't have the led on the CPU board lit yet. I checked the volts at the LED itself and got a reading of .96 Volts. I did the...

I'm not sure how to test this. I'm guessing I should check the resistance level versus a high reading? So how would I connect my test probes? I did take a peek at the Q2 and Q4 connectors. One of them looked like they had been replaced before as the solder joint looked pretty clean. The other...

Okay, got some time today to at least check the resistors. I'm not 100% sure how to check the CR2 diode. Anyway, here's what I tested by the LED: R1 - 217 Ohm, manual says 220 Ohm R174 - 29 k Ohm, manual says 33 k Ohm R169 - 104 k Ohm, manual says 220 k Ohm R170 - 388 k Ohm, manual says 390 k...

The board comes up with just the ram 8 error right now. The edge connectors have been previously repaired using the copper foil stuff so they look pretty decent, although you can tell in the past there's been some previous burnage. I'll check the diodes and resistor to see if they are...

Yet another Pole Position question to add to the forum. Searched the forum on this and other ram errors and I'm stuck. Here's what I've done thus far: - Cleaned the edge connectors - Checked all +5v test points to verify getting at least 5 volts - Replaced 7E with Dallas battery backed chip...