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Just reseated the edge connector and the ribbon cables on the DK3 boardset. I adjusted what I think is the brightness on the flyback, but it's labeled 'screen' not brightness (there are two adjustments on the back of the fly, focus and screen). I see nothing on the monitor at all. It does not...

Yeah, I'm comfortable enough removing the chassis. I re-capped it several months back so It's not the first time I have had to remove it. Since it seems to be a monitor issue, shouldn't DK3 still run in the background and shouldn't I still be able to hear sound from it?

Yeah, I took it out out tested it not 10 minutes ago. I also probed it after being re-installed in the cabinet to make sure there was continuity between the solder contacts on the PCB at the base of the fuse holders.

I just got done removing the power supply cage and checking the 4A fuse, and it was still okay. I removed it and re-seated it in order to make sure contact was fine. I put everything back together and I have the same problem. No neck glow, no game noise, no sign of life at all out of Donkey...

I get readings between 100-102V between the plug terminals so it's not low. I will take off the power supply cage and check the fuse.

The neck board doesn't appear to be loose. I may have to pull the monitor and check out the board indeed. A loose connection seems plausable.

I do have 100V at the fuse holder. I guess the next thing to do is to find the fuse in the power supply and check that? Thank you guys very much for all of your input! I had put off working on my DK cabinet (converting from DK3 to DK) due to being so busy with work, but after visiting Funspot...

The 300ma fuse is fine. I'm not getting any neck glow or speaker noise at all. I'll go probe the fuse holder for 100V right now and report back.

The 5A fuse, the 300ma fuse, and the 4A monitor fuses are all fine. Is it safe to assume that the 4A fuse in the power supply is fine to since I'm getting 100V at the internal plug? Can it be something other than a fuse issue?

No I didn't. I'll go check it now, what voltage should I see at the fuse holder? I assume you mean the 4A fuse correct?

You are correct, I was checking each terminal to ground. I forgot about it being "isolated". Probing from hot to neutral I get 102V. Unfortunately, I had suspected the 4A fuse as well, but it's not blown. To be sure I took it out, probed it (it passed), and re-fit it snugly. The monitor still...

Double checked my wall outlet voltage, and for some reason I was getting 117V at my hot, but also about 18V on the neutral. I plugged into a different outlet (on a different circuit breaker) and I was able to probe out ~115V from terminals 0 to 120, and ~95V from terminals 0 to 110. When I...

Added pics.

My DK3 cabinet worked before my move, but now it won't turn on. The monitor makes no noises of life, displays nothing, and there is no game sound (so it's not just the monitor that isn't running). I first checked the fuses but they are all fine. I then probed the voltage at the plugs inside the...

Dokert, thank you very much for taking the time to take those pictures. It appears that you (as with pretty much every other PCB I have seen) have a different PCB than my board does. By my VR451 there are actually 4 pads, only three of which are used by VR451. One of the pads has a resistor...

Once again Dokert to the rescue! Thank you so much

Does anybody happen to have a picture of their Sanyo 20-EZ PCB, preferably with a good view of VR451 (the Horizontal Hold pot)? I have a suspect resistor on both the top and solder side of the PCB that looks like a patch job done by somebody in the past. Thanks!

I have gotten mine through Bob Roberts. http://www.therealbobroberts.net/pots.html

Thanks for the encouragement guys. I think that I have managed to fix the audio board because sound was working after my modifications were made to it (but before the most recent problems with VR451 and the fuse blowing). I really just mentioned it to provide more background as to me spending a...

I reinstalled VR451 tonight and the same thing is still happening... the 300mA fuse blows. It also looks like one of the solder connections for VR451 is mostly pulled up from the PCB. I may need to trace that out and make sure that it is still connecting to where it should be. Does anybody have...