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Dry fit time. It's really tight... I need to keep flattening the back of the control panel to sit better. Also need to widen the joystick screw holes, they are too tight right now. Ofc it needs more filling/sanding too. The grain does not show on the pics as it does in real life. Can't take...

It's a holiday so made some more progress. Rough filling done, then sanded front edge square. Then ofc rounding that front edge, because that thing was SHARP. Flattened the back edge too. Pre primer pic And after 2-3 coats of primer with more filling and sanding in between. It's still...

Time for another timely update on this project. After wasting months trying to find/borrow a table saw to cut the front board at an 79° angle easily, I just gave up an bought myself a basic foldable table and used my router with the angle adaptor. I patched/filled the outsides of the control...

I've seen Naomi/Triforce double card readers for sale in my neck of the woods (Spain), not sure if it would fit your cab though... Picture stolen from for sale ad. They are just called that as far as I can tell "Triforce card reader", which does not help as Triforce also has support for a...

Just realizing I didn't update this back in October... A few things happened since the last update including (but not limited to): arcade tournement weekend trip, national work trip, trans-Atlantic work trip. Anyhow, I finished up drilling the holes, did a bit of sanding, glued them together...

Due to the unavailability of a 24mm forstner bit in any local hardware store, I'm drilling the fun way: And then my drill battery died 🤦 This is how I ended the day: Getting there slowly, hopefully more progress tomorrow.

Player 1 and 2 buttons seemed too high, so I lowered all the buttons by 1cm. Realized I don't actually own a 24mm drill bit, so I'll need to pick one up later to do the joystick and player1/2 buttons🤦 I really need a drill press, the middle button on both sides were a pain and horribly cut and...

A bit of progres: door cut down to size and CP layout prepped. I opted to make it 12cm deep instead of the 10cm from the diagrams in the gallery as the joystick itself is about 9.6cm 😂 Yes I'm trying to squeeze two players on this tiny cab. We'll see if it's playable soon enough. I've got...

Oh absolutely @DuffCon , I ordered a nice-ish crimp tool (UNIOR 425/4b) but it just never came. I had to make due with whatever crimp tool I could find locally to keep progressing and test the monitor. I will get another that can do the nice rubber boot connectors. I need to redo most of the...

I super glued the broken plastic holder on the flyback and rolled the rubber boot back over. Fix is about half way up, very well covered by the boot. Done temporary power wiring. I ordered a nice tool for this but it didn't show up after a month 😭 Grabbed an ok one from the local hardware...

Thanks for the link @DuffCon, it's good to know that others have both fixed and replaced similarly damaged flybacks. The breakage is exactly the same height as the opening for the red gromet that holds the anode in place and is completely covered by the grey rubber cover so it should be good to...

I found the missing piece of the flyback under the rubber: Fits perfectly so I could in theory push the anode all the way down into the flyback and then superglue the black plastic together. From a mechanical/physical point of view, superglue fuses with plastic so it should be secure enough...

I went in today to start working on mounting the chasis and found 2 new horrible surprises: the anode wire isn't connected to the flyback at all, and the flyback looks like the top was was snapped off. And the other red wire from the flyback to the neckboard isn't connected (looks ripped clean...

Now that I've slept on it, I should be able to remove just the monitor mounts (all of them) without needing to take the whole cab apart. Hopefully the glue doesn't rip the sides badly. I should be able to rework the design a bit to male it nicer, but I won't be doing the single piece of plywood...

@DuffCon those side bars are glued and screwed to the sides with 7 screws each (see earler pics). Also, the bars holding the back to the sides would need to be removed and shortened to allow for that. I would need to take the whole thing apart and risk damaging it. @DonPanetta 1.5mm is a typo...

So this one gets funny, just bear with me. I cut the mounts as required, but the monitor still wouldn't sit flat because of the zip ties and springs. So I cut a bit more at half depth: Due to dumb miscalculations (one of many) I can't actually screw the front monitor support support bar into...

Back at this again yesterday with a new tool :D Cut the monitor mounts to "size". I actually seriously miscalculated that, but fix forward! Dry fit of the mounts: Cutting into the mounts to fit the monitor. Did I mention I massively miscalculated? Still doesn't fit, will need to cut...

More progress yesterday! Monitor support support attached: Before and after putting in all the screws. Should be enough 🤣 Underside All joined together with power socket/switch/filter combo mounted. PSU placed but not screwed down yet, waiting to see how far down the neck ends up going...

Really inching forward on this one. Finally done painting blue and white parts (minus incomplete door and legs): Joining the monitor support support (not a typo). It should be able to hold the front of the monitor in horizontal orientation no problem, vertical orientation is to be seen (wish...

Cap found with some help from neo-geo forums. I went with TDK FA28X8R1E104KNU00 (but TDK FA28X8R1E104KNU06 is exactly the same and Murata RDER71E104K0K1H03B will also work). Installed and looking good(ish). The Jamma connector was a bit oxidized, so I gave it a few applications of Deoxit D...