Recent content by Vraz

For anyone else trying this, I ended up going with approach #2. Removing those glue blocks that had separated on one side was easier than expected. Just used a wide chisel and rubber mallet. Most time consuming part was removing components (like the PCB frame) that prevented access. Just sanded...

As I recall, there is something quirky about the accelerator after the PP2 upgrade. My PP2 board set (upgraded from a PP1) has a mysterious jumper that ties the accelerator input to SB1. I soldered the jumper, but its been so long I cannot remember exactly why. My PP2 board set is not currently...

I used a 1F 5.5 volt super-cap in my pole position. Won't maintain high scores for years powered off like NiCD battery alternatives, but has maintained for 3+ months fine. I soldered the super-cap positive lead to the original battery positive and then soldered a small jumper wire from the...

Given this happened after removing the board set, it is most likely a mechanical issue (solder joint that has gotten flaky due to movement or broken pin that is intermittent). Pole Position generates alphanumeric, playfield, roadway, etc as separate components then composites them together. In...

This weekend I picked up a Galaga that is generally in good shape. However, am guessing it was partially dropped at some point as the bottom panel had broken free. Many of the plastic knock-down tabs are missing and most of the glue blocks have separated between the bottom and side. I replaced...

The future is a very long time and every tube will need to be replaced at some point. But yes, I recognize this probably shortened its life. Whether true or false, before the rejuv, my tube was borderline useless. Since Chris did this as a favor and didn't charge me for his help, its all upside...

Just to close this out-- chris25810 was kind enough to put my tube on his rejuv and that did the trick. The difference was amazing. Both blue/green were incredibly weak before and now they are both as strong and vibrant as red. The difference is amazing. Only remaining issue is one random...

Yep-- that will do it. When removing, just hold the leg with needle-nose and then heat the leg (not the board) on the solder side. When the solder flows, the leg will pull out with almost zero effort. The next step is cleaning up the hole. Put some solder braid on the hole and then heat it up...

Here are pictures of backs from both my PP cabs. The one on the left (without a vent hole) is from #7349 and the one on the right (with a vent hole) is from #17752. Based on my sample set of two, I would guess they added the vent hole to later cabinets. It sure looks stock on mine and it is...

Thanks for the many replies! Using all this great information plus some follow up googling, it all makes sense now. I wanted to understand which of the games was actually producing the reversed image as I figure its best to have all monitors/yokes setup to scan from top-left to bottom-right...

I was testing my Defender PCB with a K49XX in my JAMMA Robocop and got an unexpected result. The image is rotated 180 degrees. I have not had time to dig into it and was hoping someone had a simple explanation. Have not tried this monitor with any other boards besides Robocop (which is upside...

The bit I mentioned only works if the pattern is on the bottom since the following bearing is on the end. However, Rockler also makes it with the following bearing on the shaft. Have not personally tried that one, but suspect it would work for you: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5411...

So you mean for clamping a "pattern board" behind the particle board you want to cut and then following the pattern? I use a 1/2" diam x 1" long router bit I got from Rockler (#90836) with a matching 1/2" bearing on the end. Does an equally good job on both plywood and particle board. Believe I...

The intermittent nature of this problem is curious. If you get a report back of what needed to be fixed, would appreciate if you post. Always curious to understand the ultimate solution.

Ironically, I just connected my Defender PCB to my standard resolution K4900 earlier this evening. Defender has positive v-sync on pin 5 and positive h-sync on pin 6. The K4900 (at least mine) has positive v-sync and positive v-sync on the exact same pins. I was unable to disconnect the 6-pin...