Recent content by sebastius

First of all: good luck on this unique restoration project. Second: What voltage/amperage are you looking for?

The line problem is a board problem. Tomorrow i'll check the schematics if i can find some tips for you. I hope you do have an original 1943, not a bootleg?

Hmmm, just a cheap tip then. Go over to www.texasinstruments.com , look up all the logic chips around that RAM area, and order samples for them (PDIP package). Then you have some free chips to replace all logic around the ram. At least then you can be sure that logic isn't the problem.

Yes it's normal when you credit it up that it leaves attract mode. I think your fault is in the monitor, not the game.

Sounds like either a bad power supply, or a bad solder joint on the game board. Check the voltages first, look at the capacitors, and then check the sockets, solder joints etc. Remove chips from sockets, replace them. Usually that does the trick. The thing is, your game works when it's warmed...

Start with checking cables etc. Does the monitor get power and does it power up (i can hear mine humming/hissing when it's running). Does it display anything? A white screen? Another tip. 1943 consists of two boards. The main game board (with the connector to the monitor etc), and a video...

Just get a connector that fits, and a Jamma Fingerboard. Then wire the connector to the fingerboard, and presto! without modifying the board, a Jamma compatible game!

If you might want to sell a working Capcom Streetfighter 2 boardset (the CPS system are three boards (two big ones and a small one stacked together)), i'll be a very happy customer. I live in the Netherlands, but shipping shouldnt be too much of a problem. If you want, please contact me on...

IIRC yes. But not 100% sure.

Check voltages, check wiring, check fuses. Reseat all chips. Should be either a very easy fix, or a very impossible one, but I reckon it's an easy one!

Keep in mind that the rightmost column on screen, is the leftmost column on the pcb.

Re: Another pin I\'m interested in. My personal rule is that if it seems an easy fix, it probably isnt. And if the seller seems to lazy to fix it for himself (while he can get a whole lot more money for it when repaired), be suspicious.

There is a certain risk involved when joking in a serious tech forum, around people that just don't know. You wouldn't want to be responsible for his/her death or injury? Yes, it is a bit extremely put, but it's also very true.

No, don't. A resistor like that is for current limiting. If it is replaced by a 0 Ohm link, then it'll start melting stuff.

And now i finally understand! Get to that screen they describe on the reverse side. Solder a cable to gnd, and then tap pin 14 of one of the suspect row RAM. Check behaviour according to the manual. If you ground a specific chip, the pattern will change (since you essentially shut a chip out)...