My 31 year old son would love to have one of these. I prefer it's at least complete in parts and better still if it's fully functional. Cosmetic issues can be discussed. Thanks!
Good advice from all here. Mechanical connections (inlcuding the wiper in a pot) and electricity have always been in a strained relationship.
Even if it's a pot and not a cap, it will need re-capping if it hasn't already been done at some point. Mine had also burned a hole in the flyback.
Wait...
I'm pretty sure the long term success of using "bondo" depends on the bondo. This stuff John used is very pricy and was REALLY stuck. Of course, nothing is as good as the original wood, but then again, it chunked out too, right?
Automotive body filler is the way to go and Cadillac Man gave great advice. FWIW, here's the way we did it on a broken-corner DK:
Start Here:
http://pac-maniac.com/donkeykongrestoration_page2.html
Before:
Middle:
After:
John, the auto body guy who did this work is very particular about...
Before I placed my side art on my DK, I searched all over the net. I found "original" machines with the decals in various places. I don't believe there is a completely "correct" placement for the art. I believe that the factory didn't worry too much about the location and that it may have...
Unfortunately, the only bezel touchup I documented on my site was very easy with all the missing portions in the black as you said. But I've touched up many, and some were really nasty-missing up to about 20% of the graphics (like my Galaga). It just takes more time, color matching, and such...
99% sure that it's gelcoat. It looks like gelcoat, feels like gelcoat, and has the exact plastic-y aroma of gelcoat when ground.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gelcoat
I found that change of apparent color too when I photographed my own machine. I'm sure it's because of florescent lighting vs incandescent vs sunlight vs the camera flash. Then you add in different exposure times and contrast adjustments and it's really all over the place. Sometimes it even...
Here's how I do it:
http://pac-maniac.com/pacmanrestoration_page2.html
http://pac-maniac.com/pacmanrestoration_page3.html
I've touched up some nasty ones too--missing border dots and the like. When done, you can't tell it was touched up.
Awesome! And I cheer every time a classic arcade game is brought back to dignity and life.
I'm curious why you found it difficult putting on the side art... did you check out my website? Tape and Windex made it easy for me.
http://pac-maniac.com/donkeykongrestoration_page5.html
As others have...
At first, I installed a cheap fluorescent fixture (the $12 kind) behind the marquee and tried running it off the 100VAC. It worked fine for about 30 or 40 hours of operation. Then the bulb quit, looking very, very dark at both ends. I'm just not sure what was up with that--it's not my area of...
In my DK, the fixture needed a new starter which turned out to be a tough find. I installed a cheap fluorescent fixture (the $12 kind) behind the marquee and tried running it off the 100VAC. It worked fine for about 30 or 40 hours of operation. Then the bulb quit, looking very, very dark at both...
That's what I used too - black poster board. To get the compound curvature needed to fit the CRT better, I had to take small segments out at the top and bottom, then tape it on the back side. It may have been possilble to steam it and mold it, but what I did with the cuts is completely invisible...