If it’s not just bad connection on part,
Check with arcadecup see if he can fix it.
It's best to get a warranty with this chassis
A lot of voltages are posted on the board connectors that would confirm power to circuits what have you checked?
Any chassis sounds ticking or blown fuses
Large...
A lot goes bad on the chassis even bad connections it’s best to have the chassis out so all parts can be seen by accomplished help
We or I know where to look
And Can see the parts on the board
But first you need to remove the power plug to the board and confirm the female pins are tight
The...
Need to keep the bulb for load on ps
Until the chassis is working
Normal shutdown is around 140 tp1 not 160 v
Your missing h-drive confirm test q502 collector it Should be around 24.
Just need to confirm the drive and voltage
Though the H-transformer t501 bad solder connection ?
Don’t need...
Great you got lucky!
Need to replace the caps
Unless you want it back to repair later!
They are essential. To replace at least once since it came out
And need to clean off glue around the PWM ic
Btw Q901 is the Hot for high voltage only
Not q207 and q206 it’s for deflection only
That’s the...
Also Check R81 if open or
Just jump it. Or just twist the legs together.
If I was going to need to add caps to board
Most can be replace without moving the board
But if I did it can be pushed up from the bottom
After desolder the grounds from bd to chassis ground and remove zip ties on...
need the electrical load / bulb 40-60w on tp1
All the time to control the b+ during TS
The ic is monitoring the vcc
Voltage current control by a Zener in the ic.
It will kill the oscillator and no HDrive
Open Horizontal transformer
The FB is common failure on this chassis
Sometimes not so...
Need over the chassis
So all parts can be seen and in focus.
With the symptom ?
Unless you know all the caps are bad
It’s got a few caps. I would pull them 30 minutes later
I would make a kit based on the list if needed
I would be looking for you the problem
If I see it in the photo
Don’t...
That's was easy
Between controlling the b+
Open the hv load to check things
And confirming you have H-drive
After 15 minutes right?
Maybe next time you get another repair.
At the ic before buying every part.
And the h-drive trans collector has
About 140 volts p~p and a good voltage
Drop across...
I know what you’re saying.
Your looking for technical flow
From experts right. not a schematic
If not fixed yet. You
Need the Voltage drop across the big ass resistor
The 15watt one side is voltage from the filter cap the other is the b+
Need the b+ to determine
What to do next.
Only two...
Pin 11 is dc for horiz-drive
Pin 6 is voltage for vertical Drive
Vert does not stop horizontal-drive
Again if u measure a good voltage drop across
R511 then you have drive to the h-drive transistor
If not confirm you have 12v on pin 11
Again you can lift one end of z701 while ts
To force...
You still Playing with this?
If just the HOT Collect is off.
To check if H-drive from the IC
which is working.
but to check if H-drive
Check the voltage drop across R511 going into the H-Drive transformer.
On any (working chassis) there's should be about a 30 to 40v voltage drop across the 15...
Yes, you can use the 40 wall/60 watt bulb,
Yes, just the incandescent bulb
On a cheap candle light holder type and
Two alligator clips medium size
No led bulbs for correct electrical load
on power supply
Great.
If the HOT has been replaced already but has a Mica out of place that's a problem.
Or cracks in the insulator.
I keep track of any low ohms on the B+ trace until i can have any dc on the Collector.
should always be high ohms to ground.
With no hot as a load. the B+ should be high...
Its possible to put a replacement ic in wrong Looks like it was touched.
confirm its in correctly.
Then get manual or datasheet and find pinout, measure the Dc at the Vcc pin.
confirm its there.
After a few minutes touch heatsink see if it gets warm at all?
Ic would suspect IC or Voltage to...