Recent content by KrisK

Thanks! Its 1/8" aluminum. I chose aluminum because its easier to work with and at 1/8" thickness its more than strong enough to hold the glass and withstand prying. Just used the dremel, and the two benchtop tools. I made the hard right angle bend with a bodywork hammer.. though in retrospect I...

Just thought I'd share these repro mounts I made for my DK cocktail project. I was having a hell of a time finding replacements (or at least affordable replacements) so I just opted to make them myself. There were no mounts on my project, the whole glass top was held on with gaffers tape so I...

Same here, no price I pass. Its never worth my time.

Sea Wolf has MANY mirrors! Looks great, too.

Hahahah this.

Last one is a Gottlieb System 1 MPU. (pinball)

Check your video signal. The 3 XM's I have all show white raster when the monitor doesn't have signal. Apply signal, it goes black and generates graphics. You can test with a VCR to verify. The manual for your specific monitor will show the poinouts.

The common monitors used in SI machines have some hard to find parts. (flybacks can be a chore to find for example). Before you do anything, I'd clean all the connectors and test the monitor with a good source. Luckily you can test these with a feed from a VCR if you want. As long as the tube is...

GPE has the opto isolator chips. I converted my sea wolf to use LED lamps to save the plastics. It required board and power supply mods but it turned out great. Short story of all that is swapping the wiring to the sockets around and adding a 6.5V linear power supply that feeds off a 9V lug on...

I got so tired of constantly cleaning jams out of my desoldering gun I just went back to using a solder sucker. Some people love them, I found it to be a pain in the asset.

Anyone have one of these from a curved cab or that isn't cut (goes past the shoulder of the guy on right hand side). ?

Another vote for Cajunarcade.com

This entire formula was devised by some chemical engineers on the Amiga forums to combat the yellowing of their computer cases (which are beige as well). Retro0brite does not affect the original color, it only goes after the yellowed bromine.

I leave em if they're period correct. (year of release, add 2 -3 years), if they're 90's or older I take them off. (Nothing I have is from the 90's)

That reminds me. I had read on some of the forums that this stuff is safe for colored plastic and painted areas and this is NOT totally true. On the SNES it will definitely bork up the purple buttons. It did on mine. Also, on my most recent famicom it faded the red in the family computer logo a...