Recent content by jswagner

I'm pretty sure this is expected/by design.

PM sent...

The Seattle collector group takes care of its kind, and this guy has been a problem for months. He's a notorious flipper, and abused the kindness of his contacts by receiving gifted or borrowed parts which he used to complete a game and immediately sell it. We ran him out after he posted a...

Sent you a PM.

And we're home!

I'm the current owner of the model pictured in the first post. It's a great game. I've since discovered that this is not an import. It does have some Japanese inside the machine, but it seems this was normal for many Sega/Gremlin games. Do a few Google searches for the Carnival flyer and...

PM sent.........

Can I get a picture of the rear?

Pepper II with Red/Orange gradiant on the lettering Pepper II blue/white CPO

Bumping as we are coming up closer to the trip. If you're looking to get rid of any games soon, please get in touch!

WTB: Vids in the Denver Metro area in late September Going to Denver for a wedding. Need to pick up my wife's piano, so we are flying out on a one-way ticket, and returning home in a U-Haul. I'm hoping to put a few vids in the back to make this worth the effort. So, I'm looking for games you...

Thanks, I'll go ahead and replace the cap and hopefully bring this game back from the dead!

Here's a picture of the board: http://www.ggdb.com/Picture.aspx?c=Coin-Op&s=Arcade&y=1988&vid=534&p=7977 Directly below the edge connector is a capacitor (the short dark blue one, not the three long light blue). On my board, all the remains is one of the cap's legs. Can someone look at their...

Sounds like a chip isn't connecting. From what I have heard, the sockets on these classic Konami PCBs are super finicky, and dropping the board would be the sort of thing that would loosen one up.. Check your solder points on the sockets, you might just need to re-flow a bit of solder and be...

Nice work, Dave, looking forward to seeing this at the show!