I actually have some original color pieces I harvested from somewhere on the cab >20y ago to have matched back then, but Kelly Moore (now bankrupt) didn't do a great job on the match, and now planning a new refub. I have those swatches so unless someone has a reliable formula, I'll take another...
BTW, my monitor is now even sharper than the image I posted after Buffett's repair, because I must have knocked the convergence out of alignment at some point. Now it's fixed!
Solved!!!
I can take zero credit for this fix. Buffett saved the day! I sent him the Sanyo 20EZ boards. He replaced the caps, VR451, & IC601. He then posted a YouTube video of the test patterns from my boards. What service!
In case someone else has the same issue, I would guess it's the...
Sorry for my need for hand-holding, but would that linked RGB CGA EGA converter be an option if I wanted to use the source to my Sanyo to feed a CRT monitor? Though I'm still pursuing finding someone to reasonably repair my Sanyo, I feel I have to considering replacing it.
I have been playing wack-a-mole with my Sanyo, but admittedly my skills have historically been limited to replacing caps & pots, so it feels like I fix one thing but then create a new problem.
If you scroll to my post from the other day on this thread, you can see my current issue. Thanks...
I replaced my B+ pot but when it didn't make a difference, I came to learn that I should not have plugged the monitor directly into an outlet. I moved it back to the cabinet power supply and got 110v. The pot barely does anything and I can't get it to 108v but the wave is gone.
Unfortunately...
Though I have skimmed that manual, you make the excellent point that I need to dig into it further.
Does "No Raster" translate to no image? I see in the 5-1 flow-chart a path if the TP91 voltage is 130v (though I'm getting 165v). I will also check the other voltage locations.
So I checked the B+ DC voltage from TP91 to ground. For a second it was around +120v but then jumped to 165v while I was adjusting it. I though I damaged the pot since I couldn't bring the voltage back down, so I just replaced that pot and still get 165v.
Sometimes I feel like I'm playing...
I recall checking the B+ voltage during my initial troubleshooting but do not recall what the value was, so I'll give that a shot & report back. thanks.
I changed all the caps & most of the pots, and still no joy. I tried taking it to a local TV repair shop (yes, slim pickings these days) and they said it would be $300-400 b/c I've already done the easy stuff, so I took it back home. Any further advice?