I was a HUGE Arakanoid player in the standup arcade in the 90's, and I owned an Arkanoid cocktail in the 2000's. My personal opinion is that when playing on a cocktail version you will never get the correct perspective on the screen- generally your view is too low because you are seated so low...
I've been trying to find an upright original arkanoid conversion for a while now. I noticed a really good local deal on a 60-in-1 Multicade machine. It's a CRT with no burn-in, and it's got a CP with one joystick, 3 game buttons, a trackball, and two player buttons (see pic). I'm guessing it's...
I would love to grab this from you. I played this game sooo much in the 90's- I got to the point where I could drop a quarter and play through to the end with over 1,500,000 points by "maximizing" points on boards leading up to the last, and then on the last board I would hit DoH 39 times and...
Thanks
Thanks for the plan of attack- given how much of an oddysey it was for me to complete the multiple repairs needed to the game board and monitor myself last time with just my soldering iron, multi-meter, no real bench setup to work on (just the machine itself), and how much free time I...
Ok this is nuts- resurrecting this again- I never actually got to testing stuff from that last post- work/kids/everything just got too busy..
But I am getting to it now!!
So I just tested the fuses, and the two 12V 1A fuses were both blown... So I grabbed more at HD and after replacing them...
Restricting this thread :( ..
The machine worked great for a couple of years after all the work we did based on this thread.. Then it was left un-plugged up until now (4 years later). My daighter asked me if we could play it last week and when I plugged it in I got the cabinet lights and fan...
I wasn't able to spot the arc- I need to try at night (I can't get the room dark enough during the day). I tried swapping in a 'new' monitor board, and sure enough it runs fine.. Which is going to make it tough for me put in the effort of swapping the old one back in to debug this arcing issue-...
I unplugged just the monitor power cable, turned on the game and put 12 credits in. I started one about every twenty minutes an after about 4 hours got through all of them. So seems like the problem is either on the monitor, or some combination between monitor and cabinet.
The only wires...
I guess I can unplug the monitor, drop in a ton of credits and try and keep game sounds going and see if it reboots that way.. or maybe if I just crank of the volume there might be some variation in the hum when it reboots..
I never removed any wires that went from the monitor to the frame and...
It does fully reboot- screen goes through all of the test patterns and stuff as though I had suddenly removed/reapplied power to game.
Good call on the lights out- I will try that. I recall running into this reboot issue intermittently *before* the flyback exploded a couple years ago-...
Toying with the idea of finding another monitor PCB to swap out- I found someone selling rebuilt ones on ebay- same model as this one, but they are missing this metal shield (see pic).. Is this shield likely specific to the ms pacman use, or would it be standard for the monitor?
Aaarrrgg
So it actually *is* still re-booting.. It just takes a long time for it to happen after first turning the machine on from cold- 20-30 minutes. After that the time between re-boots shortens the longer the machine stays on:(
From what I could see everything on the bottom of the monitor...
Success ! ! ! !
It's been on 20+ minutes now- no rebooting. I don't know if it was the flyback joint that looked close to bridged, or the loose C303 joint- but everything is back to normal.
I cannot thank you enough, DogP for sticking with me on this! When I said the the flyback 'recently'...