Recent content by blackben123

Thanks Dok. I think I'll just change both and won't worry if the tant is good or not Ben

Dumb move-I know-powered this monitor up with a 120V isox not realizing it needs 100V, so now Vert collapse. Found lots of info for the MC2000S with a similar problem but nothing for a 2000R. Is there any major diff between the two? So, following Kens' info for the 2000R I found R416(22 ohm...

If I understand your question - are you trying to match chassis to those tubes? If so the WG 10 pin could be for 4600 or 4900 (maybe others). Ohm the yoke coils - if H is around 50 ohm its probly a 4900, about 10 ohm is what the 4600 runs - same pinout. I have a 12 pin tube running in an...

Thanks for the info. I'll post the outcome after I install a new chip... Ben

I like the long answer, learned something there(the old "teach a man to fish" analogy) Thanks.. Just one more question. Rampart said he has a replaced CMOS version on his board, mines a TTL original. Any advantage with a CMOS version vs TTL in this case? Ben

Sorry I didn't see your new post as I was busy typing mine and yes that is the same chip location that I'm looking at - directly in line with the P2 inputs. Not so lucky here - no socket, but it gets one tomorrow. Thanks lots for checking your board for me and the chip info. Ben

Thank you all the helpful direction guys, I just got back and I'm ready to do another shift on the bastard. Rampart you're right of course; 1942 is a 1P game but the board allows for alternate second player controls labeled P2 to run in a cocktail table (along with a screen flip option on the...

Well, I did the scotch tape deal on all 6 of the P2 pads at the PCB and guess what....the problem continues. I'm 100% convinced at this point its the board. Wishing someone would confirm if this approach is conclusive enough.... Rampart Thanks for your response. I think you're going in the...

I considered doing that but was hoping I wouldn't need to. Heres what I did.... Checked continuity on all the + wires from the connector to each P2 switch, got a similar resistance on all of them. Then between P2 Gd to each switch(at the connector) and activated the switch. All switches...

Installed a 1942 board in a Midway CT and something isn't right. Player 1 - everything works as it should. Player 2 - the plane moves from its center to far left and stays there. I have no L/R control on the stick and can only move Up. Then when I center the control my plane drops to the...

Good call-you nailed it! I gave the neck some shots with the screwdriver handle while in the green mode and I could see some horizontal black lines like the picture was trying to come in but wouldn't quite do it. I re-powered and got a fast cycling- good pic-green-good-green about 5 times in...

Well, re-flowed everything that looked suspect and still the same prob. I didn't swap out the tran as this neck board has 6 of em and I can't figure out whats what-no map so I left them alone. Thanks for the nice offer Space cowboy-but I'm west of Edm Jeez...I was hoping you guys weren't...

Thanks Space cowboy I'll reflow the pin points and swap the green trans at the same time(I assume that its the green one if it were a transistor problem-right?)with one of the other two. I'll post the results later today. Ben

Very strange behavior with my(Jomac calls it an Orion PWB-2022 but Ken in an earlier discussion said SI\Kortek)that showed this same symptom with a Mr. Do board as it's now doing with my Capcom 1942. OK...everything looks fine when first powered up. Then within 10 seconds with the B+ at...

Thanks for the info. Not much for color screens-just a crosshatch with RGB and White in the center. I'm going to try and work with this since it's more than Galaga offers, but I'd still like a board with more on it. Is there any board that allows you to select individual colors? I've read a...